Early-season backpacking on the new Berg Lake Trail
By Laura Keil
On the cusp of the Berg Lake Trail re-opening in full, my family and I hiked up to Kinney Lake last weekend where we camped for two nights and did a day-trip to Whitehorn. We knew this would be our one chance to camp there prior to advance reservations taking effect this Thursday June 26th. There’s been tremendous interest in the trail this year with the upper section re-opening for the first time since 2021 when a flash flood took out sections of trail and several bridges. As of writing this June 23rd, 2025, the upper section between Whitehorn and Berg Lake was still closed (scheduled to open Thursday). On Sunday, we witnessed a heavy-duty helicopter flying in pieces of a metal bridge to complete the trail. I asked the Ministry of Environment and Parks whether the trail was still set to re-open Thursday, and they said it was, with grand re-opening celebrations planned for Saturday. Remaining informational signage is slightly delayed, however.
The Ministry said Phase 3 construction from Whitehorn Campground to Berg Lake, included various campground upgrades such as new tent pads, bear-proof food storage lockers and a new shelter at Marmot Campground, along with trail rebuilding and realignment. A new bridge across the Phillips Creek drainage leading to White Falls was also installed.
“Where possible, we’ve realigned the trail to either eliminate river crossings or reduce the amount of time the trail spends in the flood plain,” a Ministry spokesperson said. “We’ve tried to find better places for bridge locations where the river is slower, so bridges can better withstand heavy rain and flooding.”
We felt privileged to be able to experience the beauty of the lower portion of the trail prior to the rush of pre-booked campers, and I hope BC Parks continues to limit the number of campers before late June to allow people in the region a chance to enjoy the trail before they are “outbid” by advance-booking tourists.
How does first-come-first-serve work? During the early season ex) May 15th up until late June (June 26th this year) camping is done on a first-come-first-serve basis by showing up at the Visitor Centre before 4pm and paying your camping fees then. Between Thanksgiving and until May 15th there are no fees and camping is also first-come-first-serve. However, it should be noted that there’s no maintenance during the winter period and avalanche risk is a danger. The outhouses can also get snowed in.
In June, the main challenges are wind and nighttime chill, not so different from July and August. We were surprised to see a lot of people had the same idea we did regarding a pre-season trip. A large group was camping at Kinney, a group of moms and their kids from Prince George. Despite the strong winds and cold nights, it was a great way to reconnect with nature at the beginning of what will no-doubt be a busy (and much-needed) tourist season for the Valemount-Robson area.
The new Berg Lake Trail
On Saturday, I hiked from the Kinney Lake campground to Whitehorn, and followed the new trail that has been built into the hillside above the “Kinney Lake Flats” as they’re known. The Flats is where the previous trail took hikers, and is still accessible most times of year. The new trail, which climbs and winds into the forest, has a “roller coaster” feel and adds time and distance to the route, largely due to the elevation and switchbacks. Some of the trail was cut into the mountain with a steep drop on one side, making it a less desirable route for children. This is summed up by a graffitoed Parks Sign that originally read “Warning Area of steep cliffs and drop-offs. Supervise Children.” Someone crossed out the “Supervise” and scrawled above it “Don’t trust” (children).
That said, the new trail does offer some splendid new views, the first of which is quite close to the Kinney Lake campground where the old horse trail meets up with a new steel bridge that gives hikers a lovely view of a waterfall descending the lower reaches of Mt. Robson. It also provides an aerial view of the Kinney Lake Flats, a consolation prize for the climbing. From the end of the flats to Whitehorn, the trail ascends steeply but follows the east side of the Robson River so that hikers end up on the campground side instead of the Ranger-cabin side.
From this point on, the trail was closed so I poked around and headed back. Just before I did, I ran into a couple dental students who had driven up from Vancouver the previous day. The hike to Whitehorn was a day trip for the pair, and they were enchanted by the mountains. Jared Jones said it was “pretty breathtaking.”
“You hear about all these mountains, but being out here is a different experience. You really feel how small you are.”
I have to agree. I came home sore, but humbled and more centred.
